Как подключить автомат к проводке: порядок работы и советы экспертов

Автоматические выключатели защищают проводку при коротких замыканиях и перегрузках. Изделия реагируют на повышение температуры или изменение параметров тока, отключая от энергоснабжения часть сети, к которой они подключены. Раньше автоматы не использовали для отдельных квартир, не было острой потребности. Сегодня в каждом жилище есть масса бытовой техники. Никогда достоверно неизвестно, не возникнет ли перегрузки или короткого замыкания. Поэтому важно знать, как подключить автомат к проводке. Понимание основных принципов поможет проконтролировать работу электрика. Если есть опыт обращения с электрическим оборудованием и планируется выполнять задачу самостоятельно, необходимо знать о проблемах, которые возникают.

Если подключение можно доверить профессионалу, то процесс выбора в 90% случаев ложиться на владельца жилья. Чтобы приобрести правильную продукцию, следует выполнить расчет мощности. Также существуют нюансы, которые надо учесть при покупке.

Как работает автомат?

Подбирая устройство аварийного отключения, важно знать, как оно работает. Понимание основных принципов позволит сделать осознанный выбор.

А автоматах есть два элемента — электромагнитное и тепловое (биметаллическое) реле. Они реагируют на разные ситуации размыканием цепи.

Электромагнитное реле срабатывает при достижении определенного значения тока. Для разных изделий параметр колеблется. Другими словами, не обязательно 10-амперный автомат разомкнет цепь, если нагрузка подскочит до 11 ампер. Конкретный ток, необходимый для моментального отключения, можно определить по классу время-токовой характеристики. Об этом рассказывается ниже.

Тепловое реле срабатывает, если температура на участке цепи перейдет за пределы +65°С. Оно реагирует медленнее, спасает от ситуаций, когда нагрузка на сеть превышена долгое время, но все равно ниже тока отключения. Если слишком много электричества течет по проводам долгое время, они нагреваются, после чего и срабатывает тепловой расцепитель.

Правила выбора

Перед тем как выбрать автомат, нужно определиться со следующим:

  • количество необходимых изделий;
  • необходимая мощность автомата (-ов);
  • для подсоединения провода какого сечения нужно устройство;
  • сколько проводов в сети. Домашняя электросеть может иметь 2 или 3 кабеля — ноль/фаза или ноль/фаза/заземление соответственно. Четыре провода применяют для глухозаземленных трехфазных систем. Три кабеля — фаза, один – нуль.

Определившись с этими параметрами, легче выбирать продукцию: вы будете сравнивать не все изделия, представленные на рынке, а конкретные модели от разных производителей.

Автомат характеризуется несколькими параметрами:

  • номинальной силой тока (исчисляется в амперах);
  • рабочим напряжением (исчисляется в Вольтах);
  • количеством полюсов;
  • максимальным током короткого замыкания;
  • временем срабатывания в зависимости от силы протекающего тока. По-научному параметр называется предельной коммутационной способностью (ПКС). Чем быстрее срабатывает устройство — тем лучше.

Важный параметр — срок службы изделия. Для автоматов он определяется не годами, а количеством аварийных отключений, которые способно провести устройство, не утратив работоспособность. У брендовых моделей — это десятки тысяч отключений. Срок годности по времени также может существовать, он указывается производителем. Правильно установленные автоматы служат десятки лет, намного больше срока, указанного производителем.

Ниже представлена таблица зависимости полюсности, типа подключения и номинальной силы тока выключателя от совокупной мощности всех потребителей участка, к которому подключено устройство.

 

Сколько изделий нужно?Всю необходимую информацию производители указывают на коробке, корпусе устройства.

Как правило, используют группу автоматических выключателей. Один — самый мощный, называемый входным. Расчет номинальной силы тока должен соответствовать суммарной мощности всех потребителей электричества. Во входное устройство производится подключение нулевого и фазного проводов.

За вводным автоматом следуют изделия для определенных групп — освещение, мощные электроприборы, отдельные приборы (например, насос или сплит-система). На каждую из них расчет номинального тока производится по тому же принципу — выбираем автоматы, которые соответствуют совокупной мощности приборов, к которым они будут применяться. Подключение устройств проводится через фазу, нулевая шина подходит отдельно к распределительным щиткам.

Подробнее о время-токовой характеристике

Данный параметр — самый непонятный для обывателя. Он представляет собой отношение тока, протекающего в автомате к номинальному току. Это отношение прямо пропорционально времени срабатывания изделия при перегрузках.

Буквы, обозначающие время-токовую характеристику, — это коэффициенты. С их помощью можно определить, при каких нагрузках сеть выключится мгновенно. Для квартир и домов используют изделия следующих классов:

  • B — коэффициент 3-5;
  • C — коэффициент 5-10;
  • D — коэффициент 10-20.

На примере будет понятней. Есть выключатели классов В10 и D10. Номинальный ток обоих — 10 ампер. Автомат В10 не сразу выключится при нагрузке от 30 (3*10) до 50 (5*10) ампер. Нагрузка выше приведет к практически моментальному отсоединению от сети. Автомат D10 выдержит кратковременные перегрузки от 100 (10*10) до 200 (20*10) ампер.

Разные время-токовые характеристики нужны, чтобы свести к минимуму отключения электроэнергии при появлении реактивных нагрузок — нагрузок, возникающих, при включении устройств с электромоторами. Во время старта двигатель может потреблять в несколько раз больше тока, чем при работе, так как преодолевает силу притяжения, трение, вязкость ещё не прогретого масла. Если использовать автомат, который будет выключаться сразу после возникновения перегрузки, сложно будет включать оборудования. Делать большой запас мощности тоже не стоит — тогда оборудование долго не будет реагировать на заклинивание мотора и другие ЧП.

Порядок монтажа и нюансы

После того как расчет проведен, есть подобранный автомат, можно приступать к его подключению. Устройство устанавливается перед нагрузками. Если выключатель используется для всей квартиры, его монтаж производят сразу после счетчика электроэнергии, чтобы при возникновении ЧП последний не пострадал. Также можно поставить автомат перед конкретным оборудованием, например, бойлером или электрическим обогревателем. Принцип установки от этого не меняется.

Перед тем как соединить выбранный автомат с проводкой, нужно закрепить его на стене. Для монтажа понадобится шуруповерт и специальная планка. Сзади на корпусе устройства есть выемка. Автомат просто надевается на планку. Таким образом без проблем можно создать блок устройств.

В каждом автомате есть клеммы сверху и снизу. Использовать их не сложно — просто вставляется зачищенный конец провода и затягивается винтом. К верхним клеммам подключаются входные провода, т. е. те, которые идут от источника электроэнергии; в нижние — выходные, через них ток попадает на объект. В левый клемм закручивается фаза, в правый — ноль. Заземление, если оно есть, подключается отдельно — для него в щитке есть особая клемма. Провод земли присоединяется напрямую к нагрузкам, подводится непосредственно к распределительным щиткам комнат, а от них — розеткам.

Безопасность

Перед работой нужно разобраться, где находится фазный кабель, где — нулевой и заземляющий. Ноль — всегда синий; желтый с зеленой полосой — заземление. Оставшийся – фаза. Это общепринятый стандарт. Но лучше делать проверку самостоятельно, вдруг те, кто делал проводку, не знали или забыли о нормативах.

Для проверки используется индикатор. При касании фазного провода лампа загорается, при касании земли или нуля — нет.

Нельзя применять для теста контрольные лампы. Техника безопасности требует, чтобы каждый проводник, состояние которого достоверно неизвестно, считался находящимся под нагрузкой.

Избегайте этих ошибок

Правильный расчет можно назвать главным условием успешной установки изделий. Сам процесс монтажа не так сложен. Но существует несколько типичных ошибок, которые допускает каждый, кто впервые занимается такой работой.

Попадание изоляции под контакт.

Правильное подключение проводов предполагает, что они будут зажаты в клеммах без изоляции. Процесс очистки настолько прост, что многие не придают ему особого значения, не проверяют, насколько качественно освобождена жила от оболочки. Из-за такой невнимательности изоляция попадает в контакт. Это приводит к следующим проблемам:

  • перегрев проводки;
  • частые аварийные отключения;
  • опасность пожара.

Если электрооборудование срабатывает без видимых причин, первое, что нужно проверить, — качество присоединения проводов к клеммам. На изоляцию, которая попадает в контакт, действует очень высокая нагрузка, из-за чего материал начинает плавиться. Автомат воспринимает это как перегрев в сети.

Перемычки из проводов разных сечений

При подсоединении нескольких автоматов к одному проводу используют гребенчатую шину. Если её нет под рукой, электрики делают перемычки из проводов. Лучше делать приспособление из цельного куска кабеля. Для этого уйдет немного больше провода, но зато соединение получится более надежным, чем в случае с использованием отрезков. Кабель сгибается и зачищается в местах изгиба.

Ни в коем случае нельзя использовать перемычки разной площади сечения. Отрезок большего размера надежно зажмется в клемме, а меньший по диаметру провод будет болтаться, искрить, произойдет оплавление изоляции и в проводе, и в автомате. Это приведет к пожару.

Неправильное формирование концов жил проводов и кабелей

Контакт проводов с клеммами можно улучшить без дополнительных затрат. Не сделать этого — не ошибка. Но при возникновении перегрузок и проблем подобный подход может спасти проводку.

Обычно просто оголяют провод и вставляют его в клемм. Чтобы сделать контакт более надежным, нужно увеличить площадь соприкосновения кабеля с колодкой изделия. Для этого конец провода загибают. Дополнительно можно аккуратно приплюснуть конец кабеля с помощью молотка и наковальни. Так увеличится его площадь.

Неправильное присоединение многожильных проводов

Для разводки можно применять многожильный провод, например ПВ-3 или ПуГВ. С ним легче работать по сравнению с кабелем, имеющим монолитную сердцевину. Но есть один нюанс, касающийся подключения такой продукции к автоматам — обязательно нужно оконцевать провод, т. е. создать монолитный конец для подключения. В противном случае не удастся создать надежный контакт. Некоторые жилы не зажмутся в клемме, другие сломаются, из-за чего на оставшиеся создастся более высокая нагрузка. Последствия — перегрузки, короткие замыкания, оплавление автомата.

Для оконцевания используют специальные перемычки — НШВ или НШВИ.

Если необходимо создать перемычки между выключателями, применяют НШВИ-2. Они отличаются тем, что юбка разделена на две секции.

Оконцевание проводов путем пайки

Специальные наконечники стоят дешево. Польза, которую они принесут, несоизмерима с ценой. Но все равно находятся люди, которые при создании электропроводки в квартире пытаются сэкономить на всем. А ещё есть те, кто невнимательно составляют список покупок перед тем, как подобрать все необходимое в магазине, и вспоминают о разных мелочах уже в процессе работы. Прерываться и бежать в магазин не хочется, начинаются поиски кустарных вариантов. Один из них — пайка проводов. Концы многожильных кабелей просто лудят, формируя монолитный наконечник. Так делать нельзя.

Припой со временем начинает плавиться, из-за чего соединение ослабевает, контакт выгорает. Итог — пожар.

Подключение автоматов лучше доверить профессионалам. Но при этом контролируйте их работу. Знания, полученные из этой статьи, позволят отличить качественный монтаж от некачественного. Если выполняете работу самостоятельно, главное, о чем стоит помнить — техника безопасности. Не нужно экономить на мелких деталях по типу соединителей или лениться сходить за ними, если забыли купить. Эти изделия очень важны для безопасности объекта.

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