Как подключить люстру: инструкции по монтажу приборов с разным количеством проводов

Как подключить люстру: инструкции по монтажу приборов с разным количеством проводов

Для человека, который впервые сталкивается с задачей, люстра кажется сложным прибором. Из потолка выходит несколько кабелей, из изделия – тоже. Непонятно, куда что подсоединять, как это должно работать. Ситуацию усложняют выключатели. Хочется, чтобы 2 клавиши работали отдельно, давая возможность включать/выключать часть лампочек. Поэтому возникает вопрос о том, как подключить люстру.

Прежде чем начать, подготовьте:

  • индикаторную отвертку или указатель напряжения;
  • мультиметр;
  • пассатижи;
  • нож;
  • клеммную колодку для трёх пар кабелей, если её не предусматривает комплектация осветительного прибора;
  • изоленту;
  • маркер, лист бумаги;
  • налобный фонарик (обычный неудобен – его негде закрепить на потолке; кроме этого, вы будете находиться не только на месте непосредственного монтажа люстры: нужно будет проверять выключатели, делать записи);
  • устойчивую стремянку (именно устойчивую: если лестница старая, расшатанная, почините или замените – работать на ней придется достаточно долго, особенно новичку).

Выполнить работу самостоятельно – вполне реально. Главное, не испугаться большого количества кабелей и разобраться во всех принципах их подключения. После прочтения этой статьи все встанет на места и кажущееся сложным окажется простым.

Хорошо, если приобретен прибор от надежного производителя. Тогда у него есть паспорт, понятная инструкция по подключению. Они не дадут исчерпывающей информации, но очень помогут. Для подсоединения недорогого, китайского, прибора понадобится больше знаний, опыта, понимание того, как устроена люстра.

Мы предполагаем, на объекте уже есть проводка. Причем её самый сложный вариант – советские кабели, никак не показывающие, чем они являются – нулем, фазой или заземлением. Современные электросистемы не такие секретные – разные виды проводников обозначаются разными цветами. Но лучше все равно удостовериться, где проходит ток, а где – нет. Вдруг электрик, создававший проводку, не различал цвета, не знал, какой кабель к чему применять, или просто забыл о стандартах.

Где какой провод?

Один из кабелей, выходящих из потолка, – точно ноль, второй – точно фаза. Если их три, то оставшийся может быть заземлением, а может оказаться тоже фазой.

Для старых домов кабели заземления – редкость. Их устанавливают по современным стандартам. Такие элементы можно найти, если делалась полная замена. Если есть земля, она соединяется с таким же проводом люстры. Если на светильнике заземление не предусмотрено, провод изолируется, сматывается. Не изолировать нельзя – при прикосновении к другим проводам произойдет короткое замыкание.

Если на потолке 3 кабеля, а выключатель двухклавишный, то, скорее всего, два провода – фазы, они идут от каждой клавиши выключателя, чтобы те могли работать раздельно. Ноль – общий, он вообще не проходит через выключатель, проводится напрямую.

Чтобы понять, какие провода чем являются, нужно взять мультиметр и провести несложную операцию:

  1. Выставить прибор на определение напряжения, шкалу поставить на больше, чем 220 В;
  2. Касаться щупами пар кабелей. Нужно найти пару, при касании к которой будет показываться 0. Это две фазы.
  3. Каждую из найденных фаз прозвонить с нулем. Если оба раза прибор показывает напряжение сети (220 В ±10 В), все определено правильно.

Также можно прозвонить кабели индикатором. Просто прикасаетесь к оголенным проводам концом отвертки. Если индикатор светится, провод – фаза, если нет – ноль.

Если приходится работать с двумя проводами, то вариантов нет: один кабель – ноль, второй – фаза. Чтобы их определить, достаточно одного касания индикатором.

Полагаться на память – самое глупое, что можно сделать. Каждый из проводов нужно пометить разными цветами изоленты, маркером или надписями. Используйте международный стандарт: 0 обозначается буквой N, фаза – L. Можно закрепить отрезок изоленты на кабеле, а на ней сделать надпись.

Провода люстры

В современных приборах провода разноцветные, а то каким цветом они обозначаются указано в инструкции. Но бывает, что перед тем как подключить люстру с тремя проводами, возникает проблема: паспорт утерян, он написан на китайском языке, его нет вообще или о проводах не написано ни слова. Такое бывает в недорогих моделях. В подобных ситуациях подключение люстры с тремя проводами возможно – не стоит сразу расстраиваться. Просто придется прозвонить контакты, самостоятельно определив, что чем является.

В таком случае провода, которые выходят из люстры, поочередно подключают к розетке (действовать нужно очень осторожно), третий при этом не должен касаться рук или других кабелей. Нужно найти провод, который будет оставаться в розетке и в сочетании с другими включать разные части люстры. Тот, что оставался – ноль, остальные провода на люстре – фазы.

Монтаж

Важно уметь монтировать прибор на потолке, так как правильно подключить люстру – это не только соединить в нужном порядке проводники. Изделие должно быть прочно зафиксировано.

Порядок работы:

  1. Подготовка крюка. Нужно проверить изделие на прочность, подцепив на него какой-нибудь предмет, по весу немного превышающий люстру, покачать им из стороны в сторону. Если крюк не погнулся, он достаточно прочный. Если же деталь деформировалась, приобретите другую, более прочную. После теста крюк обматывают двумя слоями изоленты. Это необходимо, чтобы во время работы не получить поражение током.
  2. Выключение электричества. После того как определено назначение всех 2, 3 или 4 проводов, необходимо обесточить квартиру.

Если на объекте нет автоматических выключателей, необходимо выкручивать обе пробки счетчика, так как вы не знаете, на какой из них установлен ноль, а на какой – фаза. Перед началом работы следует прозвонить ещё раз все кабели.

  1. Подготовка проводов. Все проводники очищают от изоляции на 5-7 мм. При необходимости можно удалить загрязнения мелкой чистой наждачкой. Провести один раз будет достаточно, иначе потеряете площадь сечения.
  2. Подсоединение люстры. Подробнее о том, как это сделать, написано дальше.
  3. Подвешивание люстры на заранее установленный крюк.
  4. Проверка работоспособности.
  5. Установка защитно-декоративного колпачка.

Подключаем освещение

Одноклавишные выключатели присоединяют только в том случае, если проводка имеет 1 фазу. Заземление скручивается или соединяется с землей люстры с помощью клеммной колодки. Аналогично делают с остальными проводами – ноль соединяют с нулем, фазу – с фазой. Для них используют клеммные колодки.

На подключаемом приборе может быть два фазных кабеля. Их можно подключить к одноклавишному выключателю. Для этого необходимо соединить провода между собой, полученную скрутку – с проводкой. Но люстра будет работать полностью – невозможно будет включать/выключать отдельные группы ламп. Поэтому подобные методы используют для приборов, состоящих из двух-трех лампочек.

Если клавиш на выключателе две, а из потолка выходит две фазы, нужно создать из фазных кабелей люстры два пучка. Целесообразно применять метод спайки, но можно также воспользоваться изоляционными соединительными колпачками (СИЗ). Последние могут создать трудности: они займут много места и впоследствии не получится надежно закрепить декоративно-защитную крышку. Поэтому при использовании таких колпачков нужно убедиться, что за защитой достаточно места.

Две фазы, выходящие из потолка, позволяют правильно подсоединить потолочную люстру к двухклавишному выключателю. Так, чтобы можно было включать/выключать группы ламп, а не весь прибор целиком. Поэтому несколько осветительных изделий объединяют одним фазным проводов, остальные – другим. Все они имеют общий ноль.

Главное – безопасность

Соединение проводов в люстре с кабелями проводки нужно выполнять, строго держась всех правил техники безопасности. Вот основные ошибки, которые допускают по незнанию:

  • Контакты нужно паять. Недостаточно просто скрутить между собой соединяемые в группы проводники, заизолировать их. Получится ненадежный контакт, который со временем разойдется, так как жилы окислятся, начнут греться. Возможно, это приведет к простому разъединению, выключению люстры. Но если оторванный кабель под напряжением коснется нуля или земли, есть вероятность короткого замыкания, пожара.
  • Провода люстры присоединяют к электрическим проводам через клеммные колодки. Соединительные приспособления предусматривают в комплектации приборов. Если нет, стоит приобрести их отдельно. Использовать их очень просто – сердцевина кабеля вставляется в отверстие, после чего зажимается винтом.
  • Нельзя стачивать провод, если он не помещается в клеммник. К скрутке из нескольких фаз можно припаять отрезок кабеля сечением от 0,5 мм2. Место соединения тщательно заизолировать.
  • Важно установить нули люстры и проводки друг напротив друга. Фазы подключаются произвольно – от порядка присоединения зависит лишь, какая из клавиш за какую группу ламп будет отвечать.

Как работает двухклавишный выключатель: схема соединения с люстрой

Двухклавишный выключатель подводится к люстре через две фазы. Одна присоединяется к одной группе ламп, другая – ко второй. Естественно, в люстре тоже предусмотрено наличие двух фаз. Ноль всегда общий на все лампы. К выключателю он вообще не проводится, идет напрямую к светильнику.

На рисунке ниже показано подключение двухклавишного выключателя к пятирожковой люстре. По тому же принципу подсоединяют кабели к изделиям с другим количеством ламп – тремя, четырьмя, шестью и т. д.
Для уверенных в своих силах: модификация люстры

При желании можно сделать так, чтобы каждой лампочке соответствовала клавиша выключателя. Другими словами, возможно подсоединить пятилампочный светильник к пятиклавишному выключателю. Для этого потребуется:

  • Вывести из распределительной коробки 5 фазных проводов, по одному на каждую клавишу.
  • Подключить эти провода к выключателям и вывести их к потолку.
  • Вмешаться в конструкцию люстры. Это делается на свой страх и риск – гарантия на устройство сразу отменяется. Поэтому лучше поэкспериментировать со старой люстрой. Принцип работы заключается в том, чтобы от каждого патрона вывести свой провод, который будет подсоединен к кабелю напряжения.

Операция достаточно проста при нескольких условиях: есть достаточный опыт работы с электрикой и электроприборами, конструкция люстры предполагает разборку, есть доступ к соединению проводов и патронов.

Если вам хочется, чтобы можно было включать отдельно по одной лампочке, лучше присмотреть соответствующую модель устройства. Сегодня существуют даже люстры с пультами, позволяющие изменять силу и цвет свечения. Проблем поиска желаемого прибора не возникнет.

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